Development of products with high technological value for the cosmetic industry from natural ingredients

• Grant number: 18/15304-9
• Support Opportunities: Research Grants - Innovative Research in Small Business - PIPE
• Duration: August 01, 2020 - August 31, 2021
• Field of knowledge: Health Sciences - Pharmacy
• Principal Investigator: Amanda Gomes Marcelino Perez
• Grantee: Amanda Gomes Marcelino Perez
• Host Company: Cosnatech Pesquisa, Desenvolvimento, Inovação em Ativos Cosméticos Naturais Ltda
• CNAE: Pesquisa e desenvolvimento experimental em ciências físicas e naturais
• City: Campinas
• Pesquisadores principais: Andréa Arruda Martins Shimojo
• Associated scholarship(s): 20/10466-0 - Development of products with high technological value for the cosmetic industry from natural ingredients, BP.PIPE

Abstract

Sun protection is one of the most important issues for skin health, and in addition to delaying the aging, protects from UV rays, mainly preventing skin cancer. Another point to highlight is the need, especially in Brazil, for repellents against Aedes aegypti, responsible for the transmission of DENGUE, ZIKA VIRUS and CHIKUNGUNYA, and Anopheles albimanus responsible for the transmission of YELLOW FEVER, extremely serious diseases that can lead to the death. Despite the need for products that protect individuals against these problems, conventional cosmetics use chemicals that with prolonged use can cause serious side effects. In addition, the busy daily routine and the high costs of these products, makes most people not using products for specific functions. In this way, this work consist of the development of products with high technology and value added for the cosmetics industry using raw materials of natural sources with antiaging, photoprotective and repellent actions in a single product. Usually, natural active are hydrophobic, have low stability, permeability and bioavailability. Thus to overcome these limitations, nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) will be prepared from natural lipids and biosurfactants in which sun protection agents, antioxidants, and repellent agents will be encapsulated. Therefore, it is proposed to prepare a formulation containing two types of nanoparticles: (i) smaller nanoparticles, of the order of 200 nm containing the sunscreens and antioxidants that can penetrate the skin to exert their effect, NLC-FPS and (ii) larger nanoparticles of the order of 500 nm containing the repellent actives that do not permeate through the NLC-Repel stratum corneum, for be used in the same product. It is also proposed that the products be prepared with natural ingredients and compatible with the bases used by the cosmetic industries of this segment. NLCs will be prepared by high shear homogenization (HSH) associated or not with high pressure homogenization (HPH). In the preparation of NLC-SPF, EPIGALOCATEKIN GALATE (EGCG) and / or RESVERATROL will be used as sunscreen and antioxidant agents. ESSENTIAL OILS such as NEEM oil and LEMONGRASS will be used as a natural repellent against Aedes aegypti and Anopheles albimanus and will be present in NLC-Repel. The products obtained as well as their effectiveness will be evaluated by standard analytical methodologies in accordance with national and international legislation. The NLCs produced in this work may be used in the preparation of different cosmetic formulations of this segment thus enabling a broad spectrum of application, such as photoprotectors, antioxidants and repellents or as potentiators in conventional cosmetic formulations. This project mainly aims at the market of natural cosmetics with high technology products since in Brazil the products of this segment are usually still handmade.The product obtained may be marketed as a cosmetic raw material and serve the final cosmetic product industries (B2B sales proposal), or may be directly marketed as a final cosmetic product (B2C).The relevance of this project is the manufacture of 100% natural products, high technology and value added that enable human health and beauty. (AU)