Investigating the concept of identity in sixteenth century costume books

• Grant number: 15/13164-7
• Support Opportunities: Scholarships abroad - Research Internship - Doctorate
• Effective date (Start): October 01, 2015
• Effective date (End): September 30, 2016
• Field of knowledge: Linguistics, Literature and Arts - Arts - Art Fundamentals and Criticism
• Principal Investigator: Luiz Cesar Marques Filho
• Grantee: Larissa Sousa de Carvalho
• Supervisor: Marzia Faietti
• Host Institution: Instituto de Filosofia e Ciências Humanas (IFCH). Universidade Estadual de Campinas (UNICAMP). Campinas , SP, Brazil
• Research place: Gabinetto Disegni e Stampe degli Uffizi, Italy
• Associated to the scholarship: 13/04251-8 - Sixteenth century costume books' iconography in the construction of national identities and their reception, BP.DR

Abstract

A new global consciousness emerged in the sixteenth century. In the second half of the Cinquecento, a number of publications confirms this perception of an extended world. An iconographic repertoire was created from the partial repetition of this content, mainly in Italy, France, Germany and Low Countries. I intend to verify, in eleven selected works, how national identities were built in this period. It is worth remembering the central role of clothing in a society where appearance defined the subject's essence. Identity was an element lying in the surface and, hence, easily manipulated and counterfeited. My goal is to contemplate this question confronted with the authors' concern to characterize the traditional style of each nation before they were modified, reflecting upon the shaping of European identities, and the concept of "nation" and of "Europe" beyond the mere territory. Finally, I will approach the a posteriori reception of this iconography, especially in order to understand the creation of the concept of "Renaissance costumes" in fashion history textbooks. (AU)