From luxury brands to fast fashion: An analysis of the production strategies of collaborative collections.

• Grant number: 17/16732-1
• Support Opportunities: Scholarships abroad - Research Internship - Master's degree
• Effective date (Start): January 02, 2018
• Effective date (End): July 01, 2018
• Field of knowledge: Humanities - Sociology
• Principal Investigator: Renato José Pinto Ortiz
• Grantee: Bárbara Venturini Abile
• Supervisor: Marc Abeles
• Host Institution: Instituto de Filosofia e Ciências Humanas (IFCH). Universidade Estadual de Campinas (UNICAMP). Campinas , SP, Brazil
• Research place: Fondation Maison des Sciences de l'Homme, France
• Associated to the scholarship: 16/16686-7 - From luxury brands to fast fashion: an analysis of the production strategies of collaborative collections, BP.MS

Abstract

We begin from the premise that two characteristics of the current dynamics of fashion luxury market can assist the analysis of the alliances between luxury brands and fast fashion chains. First, the diffusion lines, secondary lines born from an already existing brand of prestige in the field with the purpose of offering the most diverse products, mostly at lower prices, using the symbolic power (BOURDIEU, 2004; 2009) of its name. The strategies of these lines are to a certain degree like those used on collaborative collections. Second, the irruption of conglomerates that control the great fashion brands, in the conjuncture of the globalization of the markets and mundialization of culture. It is known that in this context the idea of diversity and segmentation of the market is valued (Ortiz, 1994, 1998, 2015, Michetti, 2015), then we will investigate the relation of this fact with the decision of the great luxury brands to collaborate with fast fashion chains in clothing creation. The city of Paris was the chosen one for the development of this project, given its historical importance of what we know today by fashion, and consequently by luxury market. At the same time, Paris is also a reference in sociology and fashion schools, offering a wide range of libraries, museums, and research and study centers. The project will be developed considering three fronts on the theme of the luxury market: its relation with the birth of diffusion lines; With the formation of conglomerates; And its symbolic dimension. The methodology will be based on the search and analysis of new bibliographies, ethnographic observation in fashion events and participation in study groups.