GreenCosmetic: Algal-based extracts as sustainable active ingredients in the cosmetic sector

• Grant number: 25/16190-0
• Support Opportunities: Scholarships in Brazil - Doctorate (Direct)
• Start date: September 01, 2025
• End date: August 31, 2029
• Field of knowledge: Biological Sciences - Botany - Applied Botany
• Principal Investigator: Leonardo Mendes de Souza Mesquita
• Grantee: Joanna Marques Batista
• Host Institution: Instituto de Biociências (IB). Universidade de São Paulo (USP). São Paulo , SP, Brazil
• Associated research grant: 23/16744-0 - Sustainable innovations: the biorefinery revolution via macroalgae valorization using renewable solvents towards a (green/blue) economy, AP.JP

Abstract

The GreenCosmetic project aims to develop a multifunctional green biorefinery to obtain sustainable active ingredients from algal biomass, using eutectic solvents as environmentally friendly extraction media. Three species - Hypnea pseudomusciformis (Rhodophyta), Ulva rigida (Chlorophyta), and Sargassum sp. (Phaeophyceae) - will be explored as sources of pigments, polysaccharides, phenolic compounds, and fatty acids with cosmetic potential. Solvent selection and optimization will be guided by in silico screening (COSMO-RS) and experimental trials, followed by the application of modern extraction techniques (ultrasound-assisted, high-pressure, and microwave-assisted extraction) to maximize yield and selectivity. Bioactive fractions may be further purified using green methods, including Centrifugal Partition Chromatography. The resulting extracts will be incorporated into SiO¿ bioparticles to improve thermal and photochemical stability, and subsequently used in the development of cosmetic prototypes - powder lipstick, hydrating cream, and sunscreen - replacing synthetic or non-renewable ingredients with algal-derived alternatives. Formulations will be evaluated for antioxidant activity, color properties, sun protection factor (SPF), stability, in vitro cytotoxicity and safety, as well as anti-inflammatory and oxidative stress markers. This proposal integrates green chemistry, marine biotechnology, and cosmetic innovation, contributing to the replacement of microplastics and promoting a more sustainable beauty sector.