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Development and evaluation of efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing Matricaria chamomilla L. extract or its isolate compounds

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Ananda de Toledo Nóbrega
Total Authors: 1
Document type: Master's Dissertation
Press: Ribeirão Preto.
Institution: Universidade de São Paulo (USP). Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas de Ribeirão Preto (PCARP/BC)
Defense date:
Examining board members:
Patricia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos; Ediléia Bagatin; Wanderley Pereira de Oliveira
Advisor: Patricia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos

Botanical extracts due to its rich composition and medicinal properties have attracted great interest in the cosmetic area. However, the large amount of chemicals compounds present in those extracts could cause instability to the formulations; thus, the cosmetic industry also uses its isolated major compounds. Among these extracts we can mention the Matricaria chamomilla L. extract, which has been commonly used in cosmetics. This extract has a rich composition in flavonoids, terpenes, polysaccharides, among others, which confers anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and emollient properties. M. chamomilla L. extract has had its use recognized and, in general, in terms of pharmacological applications, it has being well studied on its therapeutic properties. Although, there are only a few studies about its topical application. The aim of this study was to development of stable cosmetic formulations containing glycolic extract, or its isolated compounds, alpha-bisabolol and apigenin, as well as to evaluate the clinical efficacy of those formulations on skin hydration and skin protection. In order, to evaluate the in vitro antioxidant activity of the M. chamomilla L. and apigenin was applied the chemiluminescence assay. Five formulations were developed based on sclerotium gum, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/ vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (A/VPC), hydroxietylcelulose, acrylate polymer and C13-14 Laureth-7 acrylamide polymer. Those formulations were supplemented or not (vehicle) with 0.5% of alpha-bisabolol and 5% of M. chamomilla L. extract. Afterwards, further studies were carried out to determine the formulations physical stability by analyzing the rheological behavior and also a sensorial analysis. The formulation containing A/VPC copolymer demonstrated the best physical stability and the best sensorial characteristics and thus it was used as the vehicle to evaluate the clinical efficacy in the immediate and long term effects. In order to evaluate the immediate effects, it was analyzed the skin hydration, transepidermal water loss, the viscoelastic properties and the skin microrelief on the region of the volunteers forearms and face, before and after 2 hours of the following formulations application: vehicle (F1), vehicle + alpha-bisabolol (F2), vehicle + M. chamomilla L. extract (F3) and vehicle + apigenin (F4). For the long-term study, the volunteers applied the formulations twice a day in the forearms and face; after 15 and 30 day-period of application, the parameters above mentioned were measured and the skin mechanical properties was also evaluated, by determining skin anisotropic characteristics. The results showed that M. chamomilla L.extract has antioxidant activity and the formulations studied demonstrated immediate moisturizing effects, but only the formulation containing M. chamomilla L. extract provides such effects in long-term study. Finally, according to the obtained results, it can be concluded that the formulation containing M. chamomilla L. extract was stable and showed moisturizing properties, it also was demonstrated by the efficacy perception assessment. Thus, M. chamomilla L. extract can be suggested for application in cosmetic product, in order to obtain pronounced hydration effect and keeping physiological balance of the skin. (AU)

FAPESP's process: 08/03310-2 - Development and efficacy evaluation of cosmetic formulations containing Matricaria chamomilla extract or its isolated compounds
Grantee:Ananda de Toledo Nóbrega
Support type: Scholarships in Brazil - Master