Delivering meanings: the "appification" of formal restaurants in Brazil amid the coronavirus pandemic

Autor(es)

Crumo, Camila Assuncao

• Tipo de documento: Artigo Científico
• Fonte: FOOD CULTURE & SOCIETY; v. N/A, p. 16-pg., 2022-11-10.

Resumo

This article examines sociocultural factors that have constrained or encouraged the use of food delivery apps by formal restaurants in Brazil amid the pandemic. Using data from mysterious shopping visits conducted in eight formal restaurants, digital ethnography on their social media accounts, and compilations of food magazine articles, I show that the pandemic worked like a catalyst for the ongoing process of digitalization of food cultures. Despite the growth of delivery apps in recent years, most formal restaurants still tended to view them with suspicion. The decision of using delivery apps still had high symbolic costs, as it could be interpreted as a "utilitarian" attitude - incompatible with the status of refined restaurants. However, the pandemic changed the rules of the game of social distinction in the field of restaurants by making the "appification" a legitimate choice. Thus, a new symbolic struggle began to take place within the digital platforms. (AU)

• Processo FAPESP: 18/24266-3 - Para comer com os olhos: restaurantes paulistanos e a busca de prestígio na era das redes sociais
• Beneficiário: Camila Assunção Crumo
• Modalidade de apoio: Bolsas no Brasil - Mestrado