Film-Forming Properties of Topical Formulations for Skin and Hair: In Vivo and In Vitro Studies Using Biophysical and Imaging Techniques

Autor(es)

Infante, Victor Hugo Pacagnelli ; Leite, Marcella Gabarra Almeida ; Campos, Patricia M. B. G. Maia

• Tipo de documento: Artigo Científico
• Fonte: AAPS PHARMSCITECH; v. 24, n. 1, p. 10-pg., 2022-12-28.

Resumo

The film-forming effect is an important property of formulations for skin improvement and hair protection. Reflectance confocal microscopy, an advanced imaging technique, is an important tool for its evaluation. Thus, the aim of this study was to evaluate the film-forming properties of cosmetic formulations based on starches and containing a Spirulina maxima extract after their application to skin and hair, using sensorial analysis and instrumental measurements, with emphasis on reflectance confocal microscopy. Two formulations based on starches and PEG-75 lanolin containing or not (Vehicle) a Spirulina maxima dry extract were developed. The rheological behavior and sensorial properties of both formulations were evaluated. The film-forming property on the skin was evaluated in terms of skin hydration by RCM imaging analysis and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The hair tresses were evaluated in terms of mechanical properties and RCM imaging analysis. The formulations showed pseudoplastic behavior and a low hysteresis area. In addition, the presence of Spirulina in the formulation did not interfere in the rheological parameters. Both formulations reduced TEWL and maintained the stratum corneum water content. The protective effect was also observed in the hair, since the application of the formulation with Spirulina showed a better performance in the tensile test when compared to vehicle. Thus, the proposed formulation showed film formation on the skin and hair surface that brought immediate benefits such as a reduction of TEWL. Finally, the formulations were shown to have film-forming effects and their use can be suggested for skin and hair protection against daily damage. (AU)

• Processo FAPESP: 17/19278-0 - Desenvolvimento de formulações cosméticas para a pele e cabelos contendo extrato de guaraná e peptídeos de arroz: avaliação da eficácia e das propriedades mecânicas
• Beneficiário: Patrícia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos
• Modalidade de apoio: Auxílio à Pesquisa - Regular
• Processo FAPESP: 16/13705-0 - Pesquisa e desenvolvimento dos produtos cosméticos para o público masculino com óleos essenciais: caracterização da pele, eficácia clínica, perfil de consumo e influência da publicidade
• Beneficiário: Victor Hugo Pacagnelli Infante
• Modalidade de apoio: Bolsas no Brasil - Doutorado Direto