Cosmetic Formulations with Melaleuca alternifolia Essential Oil for the Improvement of Photoaged Skin: A Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Study

Autor(es)

Infante, Victor Hugo ; Maia Campos, Patricia Maria ; Darvin, Maxim ; Lohan, Silke ; Schleusener, Johannes ; Schanzer, Sabine ; Lademann, Juergen ; Meinke, Martina

• Tipo de documento: Artigo Científico
• Fonte: Photochemistry and Photobiology; v. N/A, p. 8-pg., 2022-07-25.

Resumo

This aim of this study was to evaluate the penetration depth, antioxidant capacity and the clinical efficacy of Melaleuca alternifolia pure essential oil and in a nanoemulsion to prevent skin photoaging. For this, 2% of pure essential oil or 2% of this essential oil in a nanoemulsion were vehiculated in a formulation. The skin penetration was evaluated using confocal Raman microspectroscopy. The radical protection factor was evaluated using electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy. For a clinical study, 40 male participants, aged 18-28 years, were enrolled, being divided into three groups: vehicle formulation, M. alternifolia pure essential oil and M. alternifolia Nanoemulsion. All the participants also received a sunscreen SPF 50 to use during the day. Before and after 90 days of study, skin hydrolipidics and morphological characteristics were performed by skin imaging and biophysical techniques. The nanoemulsion presented a lower antioxidant capacity and a higher penetration through the stratum corneum, reaching the viable epidermis, improving the stratum granulosum morphology. The groups presented an increase in the papillary depth, improving in the dermis echogenicity and the collagen fibers. Melaleuca alternifolia essential provides the potential to improve photoaged skin, being the application of nanoemulsion able to reach deeper skin layers. (AU)

• Processo FAPESP: 19/12452-0 - Microscopia e espectroscopia: técnicas não invasivas para avaliar a penetração e a formação de radicais livres de formulações cosméticas na pele
• Beneficiário: Victor Hugo Pacagnelli Infante
• Modalidade de apoio: Bolsas no Exterior - Estágio de Pesquisa - Doutorado Direto
• Processo FAPESP: 16/13705-0 - Pesquisa e desenvolvimento dos produtos cosméticos para o público masculino com óleos essenciais: caracterização da pele, eficácia clínica, perfil de consumo e influência da publicidade
• Beneficiário: Victor Hugo Pacagnelli Infante
• Modalidade de apoio: Bolsas no Brasil - Doutorado Direto