Daily morphological changes determined by high-energy events on an embayed beach: a qualitative model

Autor(es)

Martins, Cristina Celia ^{[1, 2]} ; de Mahiquesh, Michel Michaelovitch ^[1] ; Alveirinho Dias, Joao Manuel ^[3]

Afiliação do(s) autor(es)

^[1] Univ Sao Paulo, Inst Oceanog, BR-05508120 Sao Paulo - Brazil

^[2] Companhia Ambiental Estado Sao Paulo, Sao Paulo - Brazil

^[3] Univ Algarve, Faro - Portugal

• Tipo de documento: Artigo Científico
• Fonte: EARTH SURFACE PROCESSES AND LANDFORMS; v. 35, n. 4, p. 487-495, MAR 30 2010.
• Citações Web of Science: 11

Resumo

This paper examines the daily morphological responses of Sununga Beach, an embayed beach located on the south-eastern Brazilian coast, to storms in the South Atlantic Ocean. The main mechanisms and timing of beach erosion and accretion, the relationship between wave height and direction, and beach volume changes are considered, to establish a qualitative model for short-term embayed beach morphological changes. The methodology consisted of daily topographic surveys during the month of May in 2001, 2002, and 2003, using an RTK-GPS (real-time kinematics global positioning system). Weather and wave model results were used to correlate hydrodynamics and beach morphology. The results indicate that the morphodynamics of Sununga Beach are characterized by a process of beach rotation, which occurred more or less clearly during all three surveys. Unlike what has been commonly described in the literature for longer time intervals and alternations of fair and stormy weather, the beach rotation processes on Sununga Beach occurred under conditions of moderate-to-high wave energy change (wave heights greater than 2 m). An integrated evaluation of the behaviour of the meteorological aspects, together with beach morphology, enabled us to recognize that extra-tropical cyclones were the most important agent in remobilizing the beach planform, whether in beach rotation or in cross-shore erosion. Copyright (C) 2010 John Wiley \& Sons, Ltd. (AU)

• Processo FAPESP: 05/59438-9 - SMCos: sistema de monitoramento e estudos de processos costeiros
• Beneficiário: Valdir Innocentini
• Modalidade de apoio: Auxílio à Pesquisa - Temático
• Processo FAPESP: 00/09364-5 - Morfodinâmica e transporte de sedimentos em praia refletiva: Praia da Sununga, litoral norte do estado de São Paulo
• Beneficiário: Cristina Celia Martins
• Modalidade de apoio: Bolsas no Brasil - Doutorado