Influence of Ethnicity and Damage Levels on Fragrance Substantivity on Hair

Autor(es)

Gasparin, Rebeca M. ; Thomaz, Fernanda M. ; Lourenco, Carolina B. ; Nakano, Adelino K. ; Marsaioli, Anita J.

• Tipo de documento: Artigo Científico
• Fonte: JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE; v. 72, p. 12-pg., 2021-11-01.

Resumo

Product fragrance and performance are crucial for individuals choosing hair care products. Thus, fragrance raw materials should possess physicochemical characteristics that ensure good blooming upon product unpacking and during use and additionally exhibit good substantivity on hair fibers. To investigate the influence of fragrance raw material characteristics, hair damage level, and ethnicity on fragrance substantivity on hair fiber, hairs of different ethnicities were chemically and thermally damaged. Along with this, the level of damage was characterized by attenuated total reflectance Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy, protein loss evaluation, scanning electron microscopy analysis, tensile test, and swelling test. The substantivity of each fragrance ingredient was evaluated for wet and dry hairs using gas chromatography coupled with mass spectroscopy. Our results indicated that the physicochemical properties of fragrance raw materials (mainly polarity) altered their availability within the shampoo formulation, as well as their substantivity on hair fibers. Furthermore, the substantivity of fragrance compounds was influenced by alterations in hair permeability and hydrophobicity caused by various damaging processes. (AU)

• Processo FAPESP: 18/07978-0 - Processos multi-enzimáticos em cascata aplicados a síntese de alcaloides
• Beneficiário: Anita Jocelyne Marsaioli
• Modalidade de apoio: Auxílio à Pesquisa - Regular