A procedure for operational use of wave hindcasts to identify landfall of heavy swell

• Grant number: 14/50735-0
• Support Opportunities: Regular Research Grants - Publications - Scientific article
• Start date: January 01, 2015
• End date: June 30, 2015
• Field of knowledge: Physical Sciences and Mathematics - Oceanography - Physical Oceanography
• Principal Investigator: Valdir Innocentini
• Grantee: Valdir Innocentini
• Host Institution: Instituto Nacional de Pesquisas Espaciais (INPE). Ministério da Ciência, Tecnologia e Inovação (Brasil). São José dos Campos , SP, Brazil

Abstract

Several operational wave forecasting centers produce daily bulletins and issue warnings in case of intense events. However, they have difficulty in to classifying the severity of the incident energy on the coast. This paper proposes a methodology to evaluate the importance of the event based on 30 years of hindcast. The spectra obtained at 60 points near the coast are partitioned into wave systems, the flux of energy and direction are used to decompose the energy into parallel, perpendicular to the coast, Tables are produced, and the forecaster can assess the importance of the wave, and issues warning bulletins with confidence. (AU)