Physicochemical and microstructural characterization of cosmetic formulations containing sustainable oils

• Grant number: 25/11886-7
• Support Opportunities: Scholarships abroad - Research Internship - Scientific Initiation
• Start date: September 01, 2025
• End date: December 31, 2025
• Field of knowledge: Health Sciences - Pharmacy - Pharmaceutical Technology
• Principal Investigator: Patrícia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos
• Grantee: Rafaela de Almeida Zito
• Supervisor: Picard
• Host Institution: Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas de Ribeirão Preto (FCFRP). Universidade de São Paulo (USP). Ribeirão Preto , SP, Brazil
• Institution abroad: Université Le Havre Normandie, France
• Associated to the scholarship: 24/21869-0 - Development and clinical efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing Black Soldier Fly larvae oil and Avocado oil obtained by sustainable processes, BP.IC

Abstract

The growing scarcity of natural resources and growing environmental concerns have driven the development of more sustainable cosmetic products. Natural oils have emerged as a sustainable alternative to fossil-derived emollients. However, oil extraction is commonly carried out using organic solvents, harmful to the environment. In this context, oils extracted through the supercritical CO2 method, such as Black Soldier Fly larvae oil and avocado oil stand out. Therefore, this study aims to evaluate the physicochemical properties of these oils and their impact on the spreading properties, skin surface properties and microstructure of skin care formulations. For that, the density, surface tension, interfacial tension and viscosity of the oils will be measured. After determining the physicochemical properties of the oils, their influence in skin care formulations will be evaluated by their spreadability, microstructure and oscillatory rheological behavior. Additionally, the interaction between the formulations and the skin will be determined through contact angle measurements. By exploring the relationship between the physicochemical characteristics of these innovative oils and their role in cosmetic formulations, this research seeks to contribute to the development of more sustainable products in the cosmetics industry. (AU)