Development of cosmetic multiple emulsions containing sunflower oil and sesame oil: studies of physicochemical stability

Author(s)

Náira Rezende Maciel

• Document type: Doctoral Thesis
• Press: Ribeirão Preto.
• Institution: Universidade de São Paulo (USP). Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas de Ribeirão Preto (PCARP/BC)
• Defense date: 2012-10-03

Examining board members

Pedro Alves da Rocha Filho; Marlus Chorilli; Priscyla Daniely Marcato Gaspari; Wanderley Pereira de Oliveira

• Advisor: Pedro Alves da Rocha Filho

Abstract

Currently, it has been given great importance to the creation of new delivery systems for active ingredients. In the cosmetic area, the highlighted systems are nanoemulsions, multiple emulsions and liquid crystal/lamellar gel phase emulsions. In multiple emulsions coexist O/W and W/O types of emulsions. They have several advantages over other delivery systems, such as the possibility of carry out two incompatible active ingredients in different compartments and the control of the release of the same. Moreover, they have biocompatibility, biodegradability and different oils and surfactants can be used. Another recent trend in cosmetology is the use of vegetable raw materials associated with the delivery systems for active ingredients, to formulate new products with commercial and sustainable appeal. The objective of this study was to develop a new system of multiple emulsion, in one step emulsification, which have stability and distinctive features. It was selected two vegetable oils: sunflower and sesame, which were used separately in the development of the multiple emulsions. The method of emulsification used was emulsion phase inversion (EPI). The critical HLB of oils was, 6.5 for sunflower oil and 5.0 for sesame oil, respectively. The pairs of surfactants chosen for the study were Steareth 2 - Steareth 20 for sunflower oil and Span® 60 - R400 for sesame oil. We constructed two pseudo-ternary diagrams, one for each system, in order to define variables relevant to the composition (water and oil fraction, percentage of surfactant). We selected the best emulsions for further investigation. Stability of the emulsions was evaluated by the following physico-chemical tests: measurements of pH, electrical conductivity, particle size and rheological measurements. The method of one-step emulsification was efficient in producing stable multiple emulsions. A multiple emulsion from sunflower oil was developed with distinctive features: gel-lamellar phase multiple emulsion, a system not described yet. The characteristics of multiple emulsions described in this work, to know: use of vegetable oils, as sunflower and sesame oils; low concentrations of surfactants; multiplicity of droplets and lamellar gel phase at same system; they are desirable characteristics for the cosmetic industry, and they make these multiple emulsion potential delivery systems. (AU)

• FAPESP's process: 08/10382-0 - Development of cosmetic multiple emulsions containing sunflower oil and sesame oil: studies of physicochemical stability
• Grantee: Naira Rezende Maciel
• Support Opportunities: Scholarships in Brazil - Doctorate