Full text
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| Author(s): |
Matheus Pavani
Total Authors: 1
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| Document type: | Master's Dissertation |
| Press: | Campinas, SP. |
| Institution: | Universidade Estadual de Campinas (UNICAMP). Instituto de Biologia |
| Defense date: | 2014-02-14 |
| Examining board members: |
Marcos José Salvador;
Terezinha de Jesus Andreoli Pinto;
Laura de Oliveira Nascimento
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| Advisor: | Marcos José Salvador |
| Abstract | |
Fragrance plays an important role in the performance of a cosmetic formulation. The use of natural products in the cosmetic industry as well as encapsulated fragrances is growing. However, there are few studies describing the release profile of fragrances from complex matrices, much less from Human hair. This work investigates the interaction of a fragrance composition (free or encapsulated) with un-treated Caucasian hair. Lemongrass essential oil (Cymbopogon citratus DC. Stapf) was employed as fragrance in rinse-off shampoo or leave-on formulations. Encapsulation was performed by in situ polymerization of melamine and formaldehyde monomers, changing reaction parameters such as stirring rate, pH decay, and essential oil content. Fragrance release profiles from the hair tresses treated with the abovementioned formulations were acquired over the time (0 to 12 h) with a solid phase microextraction (SPME) device, and analyzed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). The release of free form fragrance constituents depended on the type of cosmetic formulation (shampoo or leave-on), but its persistence on hair fiber was correlated with its oil-water partition coefficient (logP) value in both cases. Spherical microparticles (dH = 9 ± 1 µm) and 86 % yield were obtained with slow pH decay combined with vigorous stirring during the encapsulation process. Sustained release of the fragrant components linalool and citral (12 times and twice longer-lasting compared to the free form, respectively) was found, showing an increased persistence of the encapsulated fragrance when inserted in the leave-on formulation and changing perfume¿hair interaction (AU) | |
| FAPESP's process: | 12/02662-8 - Essential oil encapsulation for hair cosmetic purposes, assesstment of fragrance persistence and substantivity and evaluation of damage induced by washing hair with the product. |
| Grantee: | Matheus Pavani |
| Support Opportunities: | Scholarships in Brazil - Master |