Influence of the dermocosmetic formulation on the permeation of whitening substances for the treatment of hyperchromias

Author(s)

Rodolfo Scarpino Barboza Franco

• Document type: Master's Dissertation
• Press: Ribeirão Preto.
• Institution: Universidade de São Paulo (USP). Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas de Ribeirão Preto (PCARP/BC)
• Defense date: 2020-11-13

Examining board members

Patricia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos; Mauricio da Silva Baptista; Flavio Bueno de Camargo Junior; Gislaine Ricci Leonardi

• Advisor: Patricia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos

Abstract

In the cosmetic market there are several formulations available with whitening properties, however, the influence of the dermocosmetic formulation on the permeation and efficacy of whitening substances is still poorly studied. In this context, the aim of the present study was to develop and evaluate the influence of the composition of different formulations such as cream, cream gel and transdermal emulsion on the permeation of whitening substances. For that, formulations of cream, cream gel and transdermal emulsion were developed, with or without the active substances ascorbyl tetraisoplamitate (TIPA) and hydroxytyrosol, which were subjected to the determination of the rheological behavior and texture profile. Next, a permeation study was carried out with the formulations added with TIPA using the modified Franz diffusion cell model. The extraction of the active substance was done in the viable epidermis + dermis and the quantitative determination by means of high performance liquid chromatography associated with mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS/MS). The results obtained showed that the formulations showed non-Newtonian rheological behavior of the pseudoplastic type, and in relation to the texture and sensory properties, the transdermal emulsion presented the best results when compared to the other studied formulations. The transdermal emulsion allowed greater retention of the active substance TIPA in the stratum corneum and viable epidermis + dermis when compared to the cream and gel cream formulations. In conclusion, the transdermal emulsion can be suggested as a good carrier for the active substance TIPA, as it promoted greater permeation compared to the other formulations studied. In addition, it showed a texture profile compatible with the proposed purposes. (AU)

• FAPESP's process: 18/07145-8 - Influence of the dermocosmetic formulation on the permeation and effectiveness of active substances for the control of cutaneous hyperchromias
• Grantee: Rodolfo Scarpino Barboza Franco
• Support Opportunities: Scholarships in Brazil - Master