Full text
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| Author(s): |
Camila Assunção Crumo
Total Authors: 1
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| Document type: | Master's Dissertation |
| Press: | São Paulo. |
| Institution: | Universidade de São Paulo (USP). Faculdade de Filosofia, Letras e Ciências Humanas (FFLCH/SBD) |
| Defense date: | 2022-09-02 |
| Examining board members: |
Maria Helena Oliva Augusto;
Mônica Chaves Abdala;
Edison Ricardo Emiliano Bertoncelo;
Maycon Noremberg Schubert
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| Advisor: | Maria Helena Oliva Augusto |
| Abstract | |
In this work, I aim to sociologically analyze the process of digitalization of São Paulo restaurants, observing both the incorporation of social media into their routines and the transposition of their strategies of social distinction to the online world. I also assess the transformations that the coronavirus pandemic has caused in the dynamics of the gastronomic field, particularly with regard to the use of food delivery apps. To do that, I investigated eight restaurants that can be categorized into two groups: those \"highly valued by the audience\", and those \"recognized by the specialized critics\". In addition to them, I included two burger places as cases of comparison, since they are representatives of establishments with a lower degree of service formality. Grounded mainly in Pierre Bourdieu\'s theory on symbolic goods, I conducted a qualitative analysis divided into four parts. The first is dedicated to comprehending how each place conveys its approach to the digitalization of the dinner ritual through clues inscribed in its environment. The second and third part comprise, respectively, the examination of the factors that are at play when they decide to get on social media and how certain strategies and practices of using such platforms came to be categorized as legitimate (\"virtuous\") or reprehensible (\"vulgar\"). Finally, the fourth part explores the symbolic negotiations undertaken between delivery apps and restaurants, as well as the role of the pandemic in speeding up the \"appfication\" process. After establishing that the gastronomic field is a hybrid field, that is, that it combines the \"classical\" economic logic and the \"reversed\" economic logic (in which popularity and financial success are \"devalued\"), I show that both the willingness to digitalize and the modalities of incorporation of digital tools are related to three main factors: 1) the position that the restaurant holds in the gastronomic field, 2) the antiquity of its existence and its recognition, and 3) the weighting of the possibilities of ascending or descending in the hierarchy of the field. (AU) | |
| FAPESP's process: | 18/24266-3 - Eating with your eyes: São Paulo's restaurants and the pursuit for prestige in the social media era |
| Grantee: | Camila Assunção Crumo |
| Support Opportunities: | Scholarships in Brazil - Master |