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Development and clinical efficacy of cosmetics for acneic skin with vitamin B3 and derivatives of vitamin B6 and zinc

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Author(s):
Jirrah Pedro de Andrade
Total Authors: 1
Document type: Master's Dissertation
Press: Ribeirão Preto.
Institution: Universidade de São Paulo (USP). Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas de Ribeirão Preto (PCARP/BC)
Defense date:
Examining board members:
Patricia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos; Marcos Antonio Corrêa; Gislaine Ricci Leonardi
Advisor: Patricia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos
Abstract

Acne is a skin disease with high prevalence and its treatment is important to prevent permanent skin lesions or the aggravation of psychological disorders due to self-esteem shaken. This way, the development of effective dermocosmetic formulations, that can improve the conditions of this skin type, is very important. Vitamin B3, a vitamin B6 derivative and zinc PCA are among the active ingredients which present potential benefits in the controlling of some pathogenic factors of acne. Thus, the aim of this research was to develop cosmetic formulations for acneic skin containing vitamin B3, vitamin B6 lipophilic derivative and zinc PCA, as well as the evaluation of stability and clinical efficacy. For this purpose, were developed different formulations which, at first, were evaluated in terms of stability face to zinc PCA addition. After this, the others active ingredients were added and the formulations were submitted to preliminary tests of stability and physical stability studies by rheological behavior determination. The most stable formulation was subject to skin compatibility evaluation and vehicle comedogenicity. The formulation with the active ingredients was also evaluated regarding their sensorial characteristics and clinical efficacy. Efficacy studies were performed by means of objective and subjective methods, after a sixweek- period of use of the formulation. The objective methods consisted in non-invasive in vivo methodologies (biophysical techniques and image analysis) where were evaluated hydration, barrier function, lipid content, skin pH and the counting of porphyrins, microcomedones and inflammatories lesions. In relation to subjective methods, was performed the efficacy perception using a questionnaire in order to compare the skin before and after the treatment. The results showed that among the formulations developed, only one kept stable after the stability tests. The formulations were considered as \"very good\" on skin compatibility test and showed no comedogenic potential. In sensorial evaluation, frequencies obtained for the parameters considered bad were low, which indicate the sensorial of the formulation was adequate for the purposes. In clinical efficacy study, the formulation under study did not alter the parameters related to hydration and skin barrier function and was effective in reducing the counting of porphyrins and inflammatories lesions (p<0,05). Clinical evaluation by subjective methods showed the formulation effectiveness regarding the improvement of inflammatory acne, skin oiliness, hydration and softness. Finally, the results obtained showed the formulation developed is effective and compatible with the skin and, besides the importance of research and development for obtaining stable, safe and effective formulations with suitable sensorial. (AU)

FAPESP's process: 11/14214-7 - Development and clinical efficacy of cosmetics for acneic skin with vitamin B3 and derivatives of vitamin B6 and zinc
Grantee:Jirrah Pedro de Andrade
Support Opportunities: Scholarships in Brazil - Master