Brief descriptions of the principles of prominent methods used to study the penetration of materials into human hair and a review of examples of their use

Author(s)

Lourenco, Carolina Botelho ; Fava, Ana Laura Masquetti ; dos Santos, Erica Mendes ; de Macedo, Lucas Malvezzi ; Tundisi, Louise Lacalendola ; Ataide, Janaina Artem ; Mazzola, Priscila Gava

• Document type: Journal article
• Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science; v. 43, n. 2, p. 10-pg., 2021-01-11.

Abstract

Consumers are attracted to the latest fashion trends and different looks. This drives the search for novel hair treatments. Some chemicals present in hair treatment products can penetrate the hair shaft. These materials can either nourish or injure the hair cortex. Different techniques have been used to investigate the mechanism of molecule penetration and the conditions under which penetration occurs. This article reviews the techniques applied for this purpose. Various microscopy techniques are used to capture clear and colourful images to determine the diffusion pathways and the exact location of the molecules under study. However, the laborious sample preparation often leads to sample destruction since cross-sectioning is often required. While various other techniques have been successfully used for investigating the penetration methods, most of these require different amounts of work to be put in for sample preparation and instrumentation. Several spectroscopic techniques have been used to study the penetration of the molecules because of the high levels of accuracy and the quick response time of these techniques. Moreover, the samples are not damaged during the investigation. (AU)

• FAPESP's process: 18/07707-6 - Development of formulation for burns: analgesia, infection control and healing
• Grantee: Priscila Gava Mazzola
• Support Opportunities: Regular Research Grants