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Efficacy and safety assessment of photoprotective formulations in reconstructed human skin: effect of photostability on markers related to photoaging and skin cancer

Grant number: 15/10017-3
Support type:Scholarships in Brazil - Doctorate
Effective date (Start): June 01, 2016
Effective date (End): December 31, 2019
Field of knowledge:Health Sciences - Pharmacy
Principal researcher:Lorena Rigo Gaspar Cordeiro
Grantee:Camila Martins Kawakami
Home Institution: Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas de Ribeirão Preto (FCFRP). Universidade de São Paulo (USP). Ribeirão Preto , SP, Brazil
Associated scholarship(s):18/10481-0 - Efficacy assessment of photoprotective formulations containing UV filters and quercetin-loaded solid lipid nanoparticles in reconstructed skin model, BE.EP.DR


Due to knowledge that the UV exposure is responsible for causing extensive skin damage, the regular application of UV filters is increasingly recommended. However, the use of photounstable combinations can reduce photoprotective efficacy and which result in an increase of UV radiation that reaches the skin, becoming, thereby, more susceptible to photoaging and genotoxic events. Many alternative methods to animal experimentation have been developed in several countries due to changes in legislation and have become a global trend assessment of ingredients and products. Among them, the reconstructed human skin model has proven to be an important tool and has been providing new perspectives for the evaluation of safety and efficacy of cosmetic products. Thus, this study is highly relevant once it aims to evaluate the effect of photounstable and photostable formulations markers related to photoaging and skin cancer in reconstructed human skin model. For this purpose, firstly, photostability and photorreactive assays of formulations containing different UV-filters combinations by using High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) and spectrophotometry analysis will be performed. Subsequently, the UV-filters with different photostability profiles will be submitted to the comet, micronucleus and p53 detection assays, to evaluate their ability to prevent genotoxic events. Moreover, the potential of these formulations for preventing cutaneous photoaging by detection metalloproteinases (MMP-9) and inflammatory mediators (IL-6), using reconstructed human skin model will also be evaluated. The results will therefore be a source of information about the safety and efficacy of sunscreens. It will also supply more detailed information, involving different markers for the evaluation of its performance compared to current studies recommended by regulatory agencies, which are only based on visual assessment of erythema and skin pigmentation.

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