From the cocoon to the carré: production, exhibition, circulation, consumption and disposal of Brazilian silk in the French luxury industry

• Grant number: 22/04345-1
• Support Opportunities: Scholarships abroad - Research Internship - Doctorate (Direct)
• Effective date (Start): January 01, 2023
• Effective date (End): December 31, 2023
• Field of knowledge: Humanities - History
• Principal Investigator: Vânia Carneiro de Carvalho
• Grantee: Giulia Falcone de Lourenço
• Supervisor: Monica Raisa Schpun
• Host Institution: Faculdade de Filosofia, Letras e Ciências Humanas (FFLCH). Universidade de São Paulo (USP). São Paulo , SP, Brazil
• Research place: École des Hautes Études en Sciences Sociales (EHESS), France
• Associated to the scholarship: 20/13456-6 - The Brazilian silk road: through the warps and wefts of local and transnational fashion industry, BP.DD

Abstract

This research is developed from the interest in analyzing the impacts of the preservation practices of artisanal production and the introduction of sustainable actions on the relations of production, exposition, circulation, consumption, and disposal of the contemporary fashion industry. Therefore, this research aims to analyze the production practices of two brands representing these premises: the century-old French luxury brand Hermès and the new Brazilian authorial brand Flavia Aranha. Starting from the common point defined by the Brazilian silk industry, the supplier of the raw material for silk articles of the two selected brands, a comparative analysis of its production stages will be carried out. It is hoped, through this study, to develop a critical assessment of its divergences and convergences with the production practices of the conventional fashion industry. Thus, under the general framework of the doctoral research to which this project is linked, the proposal for a research internship in France represents a fundamental step toward obtaining data on Hermès - both in terms of its production practices in its country of origin, as in the relationship between the luxury brand and Brazil, from the supply of raw material to its insertion in the Brazilian consumer market. (AU)