Development of cosmetic formulations with vegetable oils for hair care

Author(s)

Lidiane Advíncula de Araújo

• Document type: Master's Dissertation
• Press: Ribeirão Preto.
• Institution: Universidade de São Paulo (USP). Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas de Ribeirão Preto (PCARP/BC)
• Defense date: 2015-04-23

Examining board members

Patricia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos; André Rolim Baby; Lorena Rigo Gaspar Cordeiro

• Advisor: Patricia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos

Abstract

Hair is a very important and distinctive feature that plays a major role in self perception and is part of the individual\'s identity. The hair fiber is exposed to daily damage, such as solar radiation, pollution and grooming, and endogenous factors, besides chemical treatments such as hair straightening. Therefore, cosmetic products are of great importance, since they are developed to restore the damaged hair fiber and to protect the hair from further damage. Vegetable oils stand out as important cosmetic ingredients, following a global trend to add natural ingredients in formulations for skin and hair care. In this context, the aim of this study was to develop cosmetic formulations containing vegetable oils for hair protection and repairing . For this purpose, three vegetable oils (avocado, argan and moringa oil) were selected for the development of cosmetic formulations for use in straightened hair. After that, the most suitable formulation was selected based on the results of sensory analysis and mechanical properties evaluation on hair tresses. The formulation containing the combination of 3 vegetable oils was selected and then evaluated in terms of stability studies and rheological behaviour. This way, the most appropriate formulations were selected and applied to strands of hair exposed to solar radiation in two different stages: pre and post-treatment in relation to the induction of the damage. Thus, the objective was to verify if the developed formulations would have effects in the prevention or repairing of solar damage hair. For this purpose, observations in Scanning Electron Microscopy, tensile properties evaluation, tryptophan degradation, and color measurements of the hair fiber were performed. Regarding the vegetable oils, the best results were found in the the tensile properties evaluation, whereas the addition of sunscreen had a positive impact on the assessment of the tensile properties evaluation and in the tryptophan degradation analysis, as well. Moreover, the results indicate that the pre-treatment was most effective than the post-treatment. Nevertheless, the posttreatment was important to improve the sensory properties. Thus, among the developed formulations, the one containing the combination of vegetable oils and the sunscreen, used in the pre-treatment, led to the best results when applied to hair tresses. (AU)

• FAPESP's process: 13/02239-0 - Development of cosmetic formulations with vegetable oils for hair care
• Grantee: Lidiane Advíncula de Araújo
• Support Opportunities: Scholarships in Brazil - Master