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Hair medulla morphology: influence on the mechanical and color properties

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Author(s):
Rita de Cassia Comis Wagner
Total Authors: 1
Document type: Doctoral Thesis
Press: Campinas, SP.
Institution: Universidade Estadual de Campinas (UNICAMP). Instituto de Química
Defense date:
Examining board members:
Maria Valeria Robles Velasco; Pedro Kunihiko Kiyohara; Nelson Eduardo Duran Caballero; Renato Atilio Jorge
Advisor: Ines Joekes
Abstract

Human hair is a keratinous material divided into four main units: cuticles, cortex, intercellular cement (CMC) and medulla. The last one could be present or not in the shafts. There are few studies about it mainly because it is believed to have small or no influence on any hair property. The present work aims to clarify the medulla structure and to systematically verify if mechanical or color properties are affected by its presence in the fiber. Medullated and unmedullated fibers from the same scalp were identified by stereo-microscopy and separated into tresses. Two kinds of medulla were found: thin and thick medulla. Their morphology was characterized by scanning (SEM) and transmission (TEM) electron microscopy. Medulla has a sponge structure composed by three units: fibril (not aligned longitudinally as in the cortex), globular and CMC layer in the interface with the cortex. Thin and thick medullas are different in TEM. Thin medulla has contrast, CMC limited interface, no melanin and smaller diameter. Thick medulla has more globular structures, larger cavities, some elliptical melanin granules and a gradual organization from the outside to the inner side of the medulla. These data suggest that medulla is in an earlier stage of the differentiation process compared to the cortex. Color data obtained using a diffuse reflectance spectrophotometer showed that unmedullated fibers are clearer, redder and yellowier than medullated fibers. Once that medulla presents no melanin, we suggest that the medulla cavities cause scattering and confinement of light by the difference with the refractive index of cortex which decreases the external reflectance of the fiber. For the studied tress, the total color difference was 4.7 (visible to naked eyes). Thus, medulla together with melanin and cuticles must now be considered in studies of hair color. Average values of the mechanical properties are similar for unmedullated and medullated fibers. However, higher dispersion in data for medullated fibers is observed. Unmedulated fibers are more uniform and show smaller diameters. These data indicate that the air cavities in medulla could act as defects but do not interfere in the crystalline character of the fiber. Thus, the heterogeneity observed might be attributed to the difference between the medulla diameter with the whole fiber diameter. Thin medulla regions became thick medulla after immersion in SDS 10 % and after 24 h at 75 °C (AU)