Wave and tidally induced processes on Rocas Atoll: geomorphological implications and future projections

Author(s)

Mirella Borba Santos Ferreira Costa

• Document type: Doctoral Thesis
• Press: São Paulo.
• Institution: Universidade de São Paulo (USP). Instituto Oceanográfico (IO/DIDC)
• Defense date: 2015-12-07

Examining board members

Eduardo Siegle; Douglas Francisco Marcolino Gherardi; Paulo Cesar Fonseca Giannini; Michel Michaelovitch de Mahiques; Elírio Ernestino Toldo Junior

• Advisor: Eduardo Siegle

Abstract

Wave and tides are important drivers of circulation, sediment transport and water exchanges between ocean and lagoon in atolls, which in turn, affect the formation and stability of reef islands. Through a combination of field measurements and numerical modelling, this thesis examines the wave- and tidally-induced processes at Rocas Atoll and their implications on sediment dynamics. This comprehends the morphological responses of reef islands, including the effects of sea level rise. Wave, current, tide and topo-bathymetric data were collected during three expeditions to Rocas Atoll, totaling 75 days of in situ measurements. A spectral wave model has been implemented and validated for the Rocas Atoll. Our results demonstrated that the mechanism of circulation and the wave propagation that affects the reef islands morphology are controlled by the interaction of wave climate with the atoll topography. Being under mesotidal setting, there is a strongly tide modulated process in Rocas. The offshore wave climate is dominated by southeast trade wind wave and swell from south and north mid-latitude hemispheres. The swell occurrence has a marked seasonality whereas the southeast wind waves persist during the whole year. Offshore waves are filtered by the reef rim resulting in a more homogenous lagoon wave climate, which is controlled by tide and reef topography. Offshore extreme events are promoted by energetic swells, either from north or south hemispheres. However, extreme events in the lagoon only occur when such offshore events are combined with spring high tide. Wind waves that persistently break on the windward side of the atoll plays an important role on the overall circulation. They pump water into lagoon creating wave- generated currents that flow from the windward to the leeward side of the atoll. A water level threshold exists due to the large tidal oscillation, blocking inflow by wave pumping at lower water levels. This results in periodic variations in the relative importance of tidal controls in lagoon circulation along a tidal cycle interval. Such mechanism described for Rocas Atoll can be extended to other similar mesotidal atolls. The reef islands are located on the leeward of the atoll and present higher morphological changes in response to northern swell. However, no significant net erosion was observed on daily and seasonal time scale, with eroded parts being compensated by accretion on adjacent parts. Conversely, Farol Island had a substantial accretion on a decadal time scale changing from an elongated ridge morphology to horse-shoe shape with three ridges and an intertidal central depression. The changes in the planform configuration were characterized by ocean shoreline erosion and lagoon shoreline progradation, representing net lagoonward migration. Cemitério Island remains stable for the same period, anchored by exposed consolidated sediments on both shores. Results indicate the resilient nature of reef islands and their potential adjustment to changes in boundary conditions. In terms of wave refraction, Rocas Atoll works as a platform reef due to its morphology. Wave vectors converge mainly on the leeward side and an interference zone can be observed from the windward side trough the lagoon. Such refraction pattern controls the location of reef islands and shingle bank on Rocas. Sea level rise displaces the wave convergence zone according to the incident wave incidence climate (swell or wind wave). This indicates that under sea level rise scenarios areas prone to sediment accumulation may become less stable, although not implying in the erosion of reef islands. The results provided an unprecedented dataset for Rocas Atoll, which improves the understanding about the mechanisms that control its reef islands morphodynamics and their ability adapt to changes in boundary conditions. (AU)

• FAPESP's process: 11/22661-3 - Wave and tide processes on Rocas Atoll: geomorphological implications and future projections
• Grantee: Mirella Borba Santos Ferreira Costa
• Support Opportunities: Scholarships in Brazil - Doctorate