Full text
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| Author(s): |
Luciana da Silva
Total Authors: 1
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| Document type: | Doctoral Thesis |
| Press: | Campinas, SP. |
| Institution: | Universidade Estadual de Campinas (UNICAMP). Instituto de Filosofia e Ciências Humanas |
| Defense date: | 2019-03-22 |
| Examining board members: |
Leila Mezan Algranti;
Aldair Carlos Rodrigues;
José Newton Coelho Meneses;
Maria Aparecida de Menezes Borrego;
Silvia Hunold Lara
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| Advisor: | Leila Mezan Algranti |
| Abstract | |
This study aims to understand the importance of clothing as material culture, at the region of Vila do Carmo, later called Mariana, between 1693 and 1755. Clothing and other artifacts that were part of the appearances were approached, considering their materiality and the representations and practices related to these objects. The investigation is related to the different forms of interaction of individuals and groups with this set of things, as well as the relations established through these objects, in the daily life. It is an attempt to capture the effects of clothes and appearances on the subjects' perceptions, observing the sensibilities imbricated in them, which were involved by the practical and symbolic meanings of these material elements of culture. The sources used to do so consist of inventories and wills produced in the region, in the consultations of the Conselho Ultramarino, in which the theme of dress was discussed, in the set of Portuguese pragmatic laws and manuals of civilities published between the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, in the portuguese literature produced in the first half of the eighteenth century, as well as in the reports of official parties and travelers that visited many places in Portuguese America throughout the eighteenth century. It is interesting to reflect on the importance and the social and cultural meanings that the act of dressing the body assumed in the daily life of a slave society that had characteristics of Old Regime. Throughout this thesis, we analyze the mechanisms of access to these artifacts, their daily uses in different spaces and by different social groups through three fundamental ideas in the process of perception and evaluation of appearances, own and others: cleanliness, fashion and the luxury. Through the clothes and relationships that the people established with such pieces, it was possible to reflect about the habits, customs, representations and sensibilities about the care of oneself and with the image that presented itself to the community (AU) | |
| FAPESP's process: | 14/23498-7 - Appearance and sensibilities: the dress in São Paulo and Mariana (1693 - 1755) |
| Grantee: | Luciana da Silva |
| Support Opportunities: | Scholarships in Brazil - Doctorate |