Research and development of cosmetic products for the male public with essential oil: skin characterization, clinical efficacy, consume profile and advertising influences

Author(s)

Victor Hugo Pacagnelli Infante

• Document type: Doctoral Thesis
• Press: Ribeirão Preto.
• Institution: Universidade de São Paulo (USP). Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas de Ribeirão Preto (PCARP/BC)
• Defense date: 2021-04-29

Examining board members

Patricia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos; Marlus Chorilli; Gustavo de Campos Dieamant; Maria Claudia Almeida Issa; Fabiana Testa Moura de Carvalho Vicentini

• Advisor: Patricia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos

Abstract

The present study is presented in an interdisciplinary approach, divided by chapters, with the objectives: a) to know the male consumer market and their life habits, to study the influence of marketing on the acceptance of effective cosmetic products; b) to study the composition and safety of essential oils and nanoemulsion; c) to develop and evaluate the stability of cosmetic formulations containing essential oils and sunscreens; d) to characterize oily photoaged male skin prone to comedone formation, in addition to assessing the clinical effectiveness of formulations with essential oils. Methods: For the study of consumer behavior, a questionnaire was developed, validated and applied online. This step was a guide for the development of cosmetics, besides the representation of men in the media and in the choice of essential oils. The safety profile and composition of essential oils of tea tree, lavender, tangerine and eucalyptus, as well as tea tree nanoemulsion were evaluated using in vitro and ex vivo methods. Once the active substances to be used have been evaluated, we move on to the stage of developing cosmetic formulations, where we developed a cosmetic base with corn and tapioca starches. This base was applied in the development of sunscreens and cosmetic formulations with essential oils. All formulations had their texture and rheology profile evaluated, as well as long-term stability. The sunscreen formulations were also studied to understand how texture and rheology are related to SPF and protection in visible light. Having all this prior knowledge, we evaluated the oily and photoaged young male skin (between 18 and 28 years old). Participants were recruited for face-to-face interviews and skin characterization using biophysical and skin imaging techniques. All participants were interrogued regarding the use of cosmetics. In the stage related to the clinical research for the efficacy of essential oils evaluation, 66 male participants were recruited and divided into 5 groups in a randomized, double-blind, placebo-control study. As a result, we found a gap between Brazilian men and cosmetic skin care products, with some resistance to the use of sunscreen frequently. Thus, in the characterization studies, we observed a process of early photoaging and oily skin with a high density of comedones. Essential oils showed good safety, only tangerine showed high penetration through the stratum corneum and cytotoxicity dependent on its concentration. Thus, the clinical study was proposed with equal proportions of essential oils, to reduce the proportion of this oil and circumvent the safety problems encountered. The developed sunscreen formulations showed an interesting relationship between the physical-mechanical characteristics and a better performance in the SPF and protection from visible light. The combination of the use of daily sunscreen application and nocturnal formulation with essential oils showed satisfactory clinical results. The combination of the four oils in an equal proportion showed improvement of the skin barrier and the groups using tea tree and tea tree nanoemulsion improved the morphological and structural characteristics of the young male skin. The use of cosmetics had a positive impact on men, showing that this is an audience that is open to the cosmetic sector, but still encounters some barriers associated with its use. (AU)

• FAPESP's process: 16/13705-0 - Research and development of cosmetic products for the male audience with essential oils: characterization of skin, clinical efficacy, consumer profile and influence of advertising
• Grantee: Victor Hugo Pacagnelli Infante
• Support Opportunities: Scholarships in Brazil - Doctorate (Direct)