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| Author(s): |
Miqueli Michetti
Total Authors: 1
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| Document type: | Doctoral Thesis |
| Press: | Campinas, SP. |
| Institution: | Universidade Estadual de Campinas (UNICAMP). Instituto de Filosofia e Ciências Humanas |
| Defense date: | 2012-07-03 |
| Examining board members: |
Renato Ortiz;
Marcelo Siqueira Ridenti;
Mariza Veloso Motta Santos;
Myriam Sepúlveda dos Santos;
Nízia Maria Souza Villaça
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| Advisor: | Renato Ortiz |
| Abstract | |
The "Brazilian fashion", despite its name, is in fact a global phenomenon which is conditioned by the processes of globalization of markets and culture. In order to elucidate why the "Brazilian fashion", conceived as a material and symbolic assemblage, only makes sense if thought within the globalization conjuncture, we conducted field researches in the cities of São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro and Paris, more specifically in fashion events where the "Brazilian fashion" was presented. Literature reviews and conjunctural analysis were also crucial to understand the articulation of different agents, imbued with specific interests, values and discourses around the volition to build a "national fashion", at the same time different and equivalent of the historically consecrated fashions. Due the liberalization of the Brazilian market in the 1990s, foreign competition in the domestic market impelled the national industry of textiles, apparel and fashion to build a "competitive edge" for the country?s fashion in order to deal with the global market. This movement is permeated by complex symbolic dynamics, for although the national fashion is mostly produced and consumed in the domestic market and, in this sense, is not economically global, "globality" is now established as a worldly valid value and, consequently, the national fashion has to conform itself to organizational, qualitative and consecration standards, which become global, even though the internal market is its most important target. Because of this, "Brazilian fashion" seeks to be recognized as "global" and, therefore, tries to consecrate itself in the "fashion capitals" of the world. However, to be accepted in a global market of symbolic goods which elects diversity as a positive value, the national fashion must be offered and show itself as "Brazilian". Therefore, initiatives to promote the establishment of a "national fashion" and those seeking its globalization are simultaneous and correlated. This explains why, although it is a globalization phenomenon, the "Brazilian fashion" will take some representations of "the" Brazil and its presumed diversity as its symbolic source. It also explains why the construction of the identities by the national fashion brands with global aspirations couldn?t be restricted to the uses of "Brazilianness", for it has to encompass both fashion market current values. Nevertheless, in the same conjuncture in which identities are discoursed as "flexible" and where mobility becomes positively distinctive, the conditions of identity compositions between globality and diversity are unevenly distributed according to a more fixed or mobile position of agents, which has mediated links with their geosimbolic belongings. Thus, the "Brazilian fashion" tries to borrow the consecration of global instances, that in turn need the diversity attributed to the so-called "local fashions" or "world fashions". Although nowadays global fashion integrates agents and regions which were not included in the earlier cartography of the sector, and even if mutual interests are covered in the new economic and cultural exchanges that constitute the contemporary fashion, the new relationships it arises are not free of hierarchies (AU) | |