The Synergistic Behavior of Antioxidant Phenolic Compounds Obtained from Winemaking Waste's Valorization, Increased the Efficacy of a Sunscreen System

Author(s)

Hubner, Alexandra ^[1] ; Sobreira, Flavia ^[1] ; Neto, Alberto Vetore ^[1] ; Sales de Oliveira Pinto, Claudineia Aparecida ^[1] ; Dario, Michelli Ferrera ^[1] ; Collantes Diaz, Ingrit Elida ^[2] ; Lourenco, Felipe Rebello ^[1] ; Rosado, Catarina ^[3] ; Baby, Andre Rolim ^[1] ; Bacchi, Elfriede Marianne ^[1]

Affiliation

^[1] Univ Sao Paulo, Sch Pharmaceut Sci, BR-05508900 Sao Paulo, SP - Brazil

^[2] Univ Nacl Ingn, Fac Ingn Quim & Textil, Fac Ciencias, Lima 15333 - Peru

^[3] Univ Lusofona, CBIOS, Res Ctr Biosci & Hlth Technol, P-1749024 Lisbo - Portugal

• Document type: Journal article
• Source: ANTIOXIDANTS; v. 8, n. 11 NOV 2019.
• Web of Science Citations: 0

Abstract

Grape pomace retains polyphenols in the peels and in the seeds after winemaking, which is indicative of the high valorization potential of this industrial waste. There is strong evidence that phenolics are robust antioxidants and confer photoprotection; thus, it is rational to apply these active compounds from winemaking waste to sunscreens, in order to increase UV protection. Despite the importance of this class of cosmetics to public health, more efficacious strategies are still needed to overcome the problems caused by the photoinstability of some UV filters. The hydroethanolic extract of Vitis vinifera L. grapes was obtained by percolation and then lyophilized. Six formulations were developed: Type I-cosmetic base and UV filters; Type II-cosmetic base and extract; and Type III-cosmetic base, extract and UV filters. Each formulation was prepared in the pHs 5 and 7. The antioxidant activities of the samples were measured by DPPH center dot and expressed in Trolox (R) equivalents (TE), and their photostability and in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) were analyzed by diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry. The anti-radical efficiencies observed in the formulations with grape extract were: (II) 590.12 +/- 0.01 mu mol TE g(-1) at pH 5 and 424.51 +/- 0.32 mu mol TE g(-1) at pH 7; (III) 550.88 +/- 0.00 mu mol TE g(-1) at pH 5 and 429.66 +/- 0.10 mu mol TE g(-1,) at pH 7, demonstrating that the UV filters, butylmethoxydibenzoyl methane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and ethylhexyl dimethyl 4-aminobenzoic acid had no influence on this effect. The photoprotective efficacy and the photostability of formulation III containing the extract and UV filters at pH 5 suggested that a synergism between the active molecules provided an 81% increase in SPF. Additionally, this was the only sample that maintained a broad spectrum of protection after irradiation. These results confirmed that the grape pomace extract has multifunctional potential for cosmetic use, mainly in sunscreens, granting them superior performance. (AU)

• FAPESP's process: 16/24360-4 - Antilipoperoxidative and anti-inflammatory effects of multifunctional sunscreens containing ferulic acid
• Grantee: André Rolim Baby
• Support Opportunities: Regular Research Grants
• FAPESP's process: 08/57800-0 - Broad-spectrum sunscreens: conceptual and practical development of bioactive sunscreens
• Grantee: André Rolim Baby
• Support Opportunities: Regular Research Grants