Development of cosmetic formulations containing biopolymer with film-forming effect: extracts of Kappaphycus alvarezii and Caesalpinia spinosa

• Grant number: 19/00432-4
• Support Opportunities: Scholarships in Brazil - Scientific Initiation
• Start date: September 01, 2019
• End date: August 31, 2020
• Field of knowledge: Health Sciences - Pharmacy
• Principal Investigator: Patrícia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos
• Grantee: Letícia Kakuda
• Host Institution: Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas de Ribeirão Preto (FCFRP). Universidade de São Paulo (USP). Ribeirão Preto , SP, Brazil

Abstract

Several cosmetics with an anti-pollution action appeal are on sale. However most of them have this action in an indirect way for example decreasing or delaying the consequences of the interaction between the skin and the pollution. Thus, the development of cosmetic formulations that protect the skin more effectively from this interaction leads us to obtain formulations with a film-forming effect. Only the mechanism of action of the active substances with potential antipollution effect is still little known such as the biopolymers present in the Tara extract - Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit and the red algae Kappaphycus Alvarezii. These have a great potential of application because promote a film on the skin protecting the skin from external aggression. In this context, the objective of the present study was to develop and evaluate the physical-mechanical properties - rheological behavior and texture profile of cosmetic formulations containing biopolymer from natural extracts. Evaluate the clinical effectiveness of their will use advanced techniques of biophysics and skin image analysis such as Reflectance Confocal Microscopy (RCM). The application of biophysical and skin imaging techniques is a differential since it allows the evaluation of clinical effectiveness by non-invasive and real-time methods. Among these RCM allows the characterization of the skin layers with the visualization of the film-forming effect of cosmetic formulations on the stratum corneum and also its long term effects on the viable epidermis. Finally, the present study presents as a contribution the scientific proof of the effectiveness of cosmetic formulations for the protection of the skin and will help in understanding the relationship between the skin and the external environment such as pollution.