À la française, Á portugueza or chef's fashion? The repercussion of haute cuisine in Portugal in the Cozinheiro Moderno, ou Nova Arte de Cozinha (1780)

• Grant number: 22/03552-3
• Support Opportunities: Scholarships in Brazil - Scientific Initiation
• Start date: May 01, 2022
• End date: December 31, 2022
• Field of knowledge: Humanities - History - Modern and Contemporary History
• Principal Investigator: Ana Carolina de Carvalho Viotti
• Grantee: Renato Lima Leite
• Host Institution: Faculdade de Ciências Humanas e Sociais (FCHS). Universidade Estadual Paulista (UNESP). Campus de Franca. Franca , SP, Brazil

Abstract

The Portuguese cuisine of the 18th century was undoubtedly influenced by the gastronomic transformations that took place in France. There is a sudden change in the tastes of the time, in the type of food consumed, and in the preparation of the finest dishes, the result of the ascendancy of the development of French cuisine, caused along with the attempt to imitate the staging of the lifestyle coming from the court and the gallic bourgeoisie. Lucas Rigaud, writer of the second book of gastronomic content printed in Portuguese territory, entitled "Cozinheiro Moderno, ou Nova Arte de Cozinha" (first version published in 1780), was the royal cook responsible for introducing haute cuisine of the French elite to the kingdom of Portugal while contesting the relevance (or rather, the lucidity) of Domingos Rodrigues centenary recipe booklet. The present work comprises a study of the recipes taken as "à française" from Rigaud's book, revealing the understanding of the methods and ingredients used by the author to compose his work. And to cover the reasons for the preparations to present this exclusive nomenclature, through an analysis of the fusion of French and Portuguese gastronomy. The "modern" Lusitanian culinary movement is the result of this indispensable work to understand the mixture of modern Gallic influence and the striking, yet the enduring flavor of Portuguese medieval cuisine. (AU)