Evaluation of the mechanism of action of topic formulations with moisturizing and antioxidant properties

• Grant number: 22/05122-6
• Support Opportunities: Scholarships abroad - Research Internship - Scientific Initiation
• Start date: August 01, 2022
• End date: October 31, 2022
• Field of knowledge: Health Sciences - Pharmacy
• Principal Investigator: Patrícia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos
• Grantee: Laura Noronha Favaro
• Supervisor: Luis Antonio Monteiro Rodrigues
• Host Institution: Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas de Ribeirão Preto (FCFRP). Universidade de São Paulo (USP). Ribeirão Preto , SP, Brazil
• Institution abroad: Universidade Lusófona de Humanidades e Tecnologias, Portugal
• Associated to the scholarship: 21/10186-0 - Development and evaluation of the effectiveness of cosmetic formulations for tattooed skin care, BP.IC

Abstract

Cosmetic formulations with repairing and antioxidant purposes need to act on the deeper layers of the epidermis where they release the active substances. However, there are few studies elucidating the mechanism of action and the influence of the composition of cosmetic formulations on the skin penetration of these substances. In this context, the present study aims to evaluate the penetration and the mechanism of action of restorative, antioxidant and moisturizing cosmetic formulations. To this end, enzymatic assays related to the inhibition of the activity of enzymes such as collagenase and elastase will be carried out in order to elucidate the mechanism of action of the fat-soluble derivative of vitamin C - ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate - and the essential oil of Cymbopogon flexuosus antioxidant active substances, in different concentrations. In addition, a penetration study will be carried out using cosmetic formulations with 1% D-panthenol, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and Cymbopogon flexuosus essential oil on human explant skin. The proposed studies contribute to the development of more effective and safe moisturizing, repairing and antioxidant cosmetic formulations aimed at the care of tattooed skin. (AU)