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Development and evaluation of cosmetic formulations for skin and hair containing D-panthenol and the liposoluble vitamin C derivative

Grant number: 23/09579-3
Support Opportunities:Scholarships in Brazil - Scientific Initiation
Effective date (Start): August 01, 2023
Effective date (End): July 31, 2024
Field of knowledge:Health Sciences - Pharmacy - Pharmaceutical Technology
Principal Investigator:Patrícia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos
Grantee:Ana Julia Ferreira Garcia
Host Institution: Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas de Ribeirão Preto (FCFRP). Universidade de São Paulo (USP). Ribeirão Preto , SP, Brazil

Abstract

Exposure to factors of the exposome can accelerate the aging of the skin and hair, resulting from oxidation by the increase of free radicals that cannot be eliminated endogenously, thus altering their morphology and physiology. The agents that present the greatest harm to the body are the sun's rays and pollution. Therefore, the use of photoprotectors is essential to control the damage caused by the exposome. In addition, the use of shampoos, conditioners and leave-in with protective effects helps to protect the hair. In this sense, the use of cosmetic formulations plus vitamins, such as pro-vitamin B5 (D-Panthenol) and the fat-soluble derivative of vitamin C (ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate - TIPA), helps to reduce free radicals from the exposome, in addition to the moisturizing effect on the skin. Given this, the association of these vitamins in cosmetic formulations can assist in photoprotection, as well as in improving the uniformity of hair strands, by reducing friction between fibers. In this context, the present study aims to evaluate the rheological behavior, texture profile, sensory properties and clinical efficacy of photoprotectors containing D-panthenol and TIPA, using advanced biophysical techniques, in addition to evaluating the efficacy of formulations for hair care, in standardized hair tress.

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