Film-Forming Properties of Topical Formulations for Skin and Hair: In Vivo and In Vitro Studies Using Biophysical and Imaging Techniques

Author(s)

Infante, Victor Hugo Pacagnelli ; Leite, Marcella Gabarra Almeida ; Campos, Patricia M. B. G. Maia

• Document type: Journal article
• Source: AAPS PHARMSCITECH; v. 24, n. 1, p. 10-pg., 2022-12-28.

Abstract

The film-forming effect is an important property of formulations for skin improvement and hair protection. Reflectance confocal microscopy, an advanced imaging technique, is an important tool for its evaluation. Thus, the aim of this study was to evaluate the film-forming properties of cosmetic formulations based on starches and containing a Spirulina maxima extract after their application to skin and hair, using sensorial analysis and instrumental measurements, with emphasis on reflectance confocal microscopy. Two formulations based on starches and PEG-75 lanolin containing or not (Vehicle) a Spirulina maxima dry extract were developed. The rheological behavior and sensorial properties of both formulations were evaluated. The film-forming property on the skin was evaluated in terms of skin hydration by RCM imaging analysis and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The hair tresses were evaluated in terms of mechanical properties and RCM imaging analysis. The formulations showed pseudoplastic behavior and a low hysteresis area. In addition, the presence of Spirulina in the formulation did not interfere in the rheological parameters. Both formulations reduced TEWL and maintained the stratum corneum water content. The protective effect was also observed in the hair, since the application of the formulation with Spirulina showed a better performance in the tensile test when compared to vehicle. Thus, the proposed formulation showed film formation on the skin and hair surface that brought immediate benefits such as a reduction of TEWL. Finally, the formulations were shown to have film-forming effects and their use can be suggested for skin and hair protection against daily damage. (AU)

• FAPESP's process: 17/19278-0 - DEVELOPMENT OF HAIR AND SKIN CARE COSMETIC FORMULATIONS CONTAINING GUARANA EXTRACT AND RICE PEPTIDES: EFFICACY AND MECHANICAL PROPERTIES EVALUATION
• Grantee: Patrícia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos
• Support Opportunities: Regular Research Grants
• FAPESP's process: 16/13705-0 - Research and development of cosmetic products for the male audience with essential oils: characterization of skin, clinical efficacy, consumer profile and influence of advertising
• Grantee: Victor Hugo Pacagnelli Infante
• Support Opportunities: Scholarships in Brazil - Doctorate (Direct)