Customized cosmetics: from diagnosis to treatment

• Grant number: 21/12099-8
• Support Opportunities: Research Grants - Innovative Research in Small Business - PIPE
• Start date: March 01, 2022
• End date: August 31, 2024
• Field of knowledge: Engineering - Materials and Metallurgical Engineering - Nonmetallic Materials
• Agreement: SEBRAE-SP
• Principal Investigator: Valéria Moraes Longo
• Grantee: Valéria Moraes Longo
• CNAE: Atividades profissionais, científicas e técnicas não especificadas anteriormente
• Principal investigators: Sergio Parsek Parsekian
• Principal investigators: Valéria Moraes Longo
• Associated researchers: Anderson Ferreira da Cunha ; Emanuel Carrilho
• Associated research grant(s): 21/15037-3 - Customized cosmetics: from diagnosis to treatment, AP.PIPE
• Associated scholarship(s): 22/04125-1 - Study of the influence of customized dermocosmetics on fiber capillary, BP.TT; 22/02412-3 - Customized cosmetics: from diagnosis to treatment, BP.PIPE; 22/03803-6 - Study of the influence of dermocosmetics customized in the hair follicle, BP.TT

Abstract

The 21st century sees a growing demand for personal care, hygiene, cosmetics and perfumery products. Today, Brazil ranks as the fourth world consumer market for this type of products and the third market for hair care products. Even amidst the crisis caused by the new coronavirus, the results were positive in 2020.In the current context of cosmetics in Brazil, there are some relevant trends such as: great diversity of products, product specificity, clean beauty, natural cosmetics, minimalist formulas, scalp treatment products (dermocosmetics), customization and personalization. Furthermore, we see a growing consumer demand for digital influencers to make their cosmetic choices. The hair, in addition to being the frame of the face, or aesthetic aspects, is related to the person's overall health. In this way, not only the hair itself (hair fiber), but other attributes such as the scalp, diet, way of life, microbiota, emotional states, metabolism and DNA, reflect the good health of the hair. We can even think that hair directly reflects our health as a whole. Katléia Lab is a company that was created with the objective of taking to the consumer a deeper knowledge and assertive treatment about the demands of their hair. Thus, it dedicated itself to the creation of two exams, the Hair Test and the Hair DNA, focused on the consumer and on the health of the hair and scalp. The Hair Test consists of an integrative history and a stress-strain test performed on the person's hair, to diagnose its interior. Hair DNA consists of the evaluation of some polymorphisms related to the person's metabolism as a whole (nutritional profile and detox), intrinsic characteristics of the hair (color, wave and keratin characteristics) and androgenetic alopecia profile. The two exams in question were developed through a PIPE FAPESP project, Phase I and Phase II, in the period from 2016 to 2020.Currently, the exams are sold directly to the final consumer on our e-commerce (https://loja.katleia.com.br/) and on our partners, which are mostly dermatological clinics and offices. In the project "Personalized hair diagnosis for the final consumer" we had a successful case study customizing supplements according to genetic results. We observed that treating them in a personalized way enhanced the improvements observed in the subjects' scalp and hair. In practice, in clinics today, we see this significant improvement, including greater patient adherence to treatment by observing the improvements achieved. After examining the Hair Test and Hair DNA, we now make indications of hairline lines in the market that we trust. However, we are not able to treat in a personalized way according to the observed diagnosis, because for this we need to have an adjustment between diagnosis and formula. We will only be able to make such an adjustment having our own formulas (products). Thus, in the current project, we intend to continue the development of personalized products according to the results of the Hair Test and Hair DNA. Furthermore, to popularize the tests, we intend to create the "cosmetic DNA", which will have a lower cost and faster delivery, for sale to the consumer. Basic scientific research will be focused on the optimization and adequacy of the bases and cosmetic actives used according to the observed diagnosis and case studies with volunteers to measure the concrete results of this optimization. In this way, we complete the virtuous cycle of diagnosis and treatment. (AU)