Development and evaluation of cosmetic formulations for skin and hair containing D-panthenol and the liposoluble vitamin C derivative

• Grant number: 23/09579-3
• Support Opportunities: Scholarships in Brazil - Scientific Initiation
• Start date: August 01, 2023
• Status: Discontinued
• Field of knowledge: Health Sciences - Pharmacy - Pharmaceutical Technology
• Principal Investigator: Patrícia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos
• Grantee: Ana Julia Ferreira Garcia
• Host Institution: Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas de Ribeirão Preto (FCFRP). Universidade de São Paulo (USP). Ribeirão Preto , SP, Brazil
• Associated scholarship(s): 24/01949-9 - Evaluation of the mechanisms of action of photoprotective cosmetic formulations containing D-panthenol and the liposoluble derivative of vitamin C, BE.EP.IC

Abstract

Exposure to factors of the exposome can accelerate the aging of the skin and hair, resulting from oxidation by the increase of free radicals that cannot be eliminated endogenously, thus altering their morphology and physiology. The agents that present the greatest harm to the body are the sun's rays and pollution. Therefore, the use of photoprotectors is essential to control the damage caused by the exposome. In addition, the use of shampoos, conditioners and leave-in with protective effects helps to protect the hair. In this sense, the use of cosmetic formulations plus vitamins, such as pro-vitamin B5 (D-Panthenol) and the fat-soluble derivative of vitamin C (ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate - TIPA), helps to reduce free radicals from the exposome, in addition to the moisturizing effect on the skin. Given this, the association of these vitamins in cosmetic formulations can assist in photoprotection, as well as in improving the uniformity of hair strands, by reducing friction between fibers. In this context, the present study aims to evaluate the rheological behavior, texture profile, sensory properties and clinical efficacy of photoprotectors containing D-panthenol and TIPA, using advanced biophysical techniques, in addition to evaluating the efficacy of formulations for hair care, in standardized hair tress.