Evaluation of the mechanisms of action of photoprotective cosmetic formulations containing D-panthenol and the liposoluble derivative of vitamin C

• Grant number: 24/01949-9
• Support Opportunities: Scholarships abroad - Research Internship - Scientific Initiation
• Start date: April 01, 2025
• End date: June 30, 2025
• Field of knowledge: Health Sciences - Pharmacy - Pharmaceutical Technology
• Principal Investigator: Patrícia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos
• Grantee: Ana Julia Ferreira Garcia
• Supervisor: Luis Antonio Monteiro Rodrigues
• Host Institution: Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas de Ribeirão Preto (FCFRP). Universidade de São Paulo (USP). Ribeirão Preto , SP, Brazil
• Institution abroad: Universidade Lusófona de Humanidades e Tecnologias, Portugal
• Associated to the scholarship: 23/09579-3 - Development and evaluation of cosmetic formulations for skin and hair containing D-panthenol and the liposoluble vitamin C derivative, BP.IC

Abstract

Premature ageing associated with exposure to the exposome triggers oxidative stress, leading to cell damage and skin changes. In this context, multifunctional cosmetic products such as sunscreens with pro-vitamin B5 (D-panthenol) and the liposoluble vitamin C derivative ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (ATIP) offer sun protection, hydration and antioxidant action. D-panthenol, a provitamin B5, has healing and moisturising properties with a low incidence of side effects. ATIP acts as a cofactor in the biosynthesis of dermal components, providing hydration and antioxidant protection. Considering that the formulation used as a vehicle can influence the penetration of active ingredients and the expected clinical efficacy of the formulation, the aim of this study is to assess the retention/penetration of cosmetic formulations in the outer layers of the epidermis and to evaluate the mechanisms of action and influence of ATIP and D-panthenol in human skin explants as an alternative to the use of animal skin. Finally, the proposed project aims to elucidate the mechanisms of action of the active substances and to assess how different cosmetic bases influence the degree of penetration into human skin.