Full text
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| Author(s): |
Leilane Rigatto Martins
Total Authors: 1
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| Document type: | Doctoral Thesis |
| Press: | São Paulo. |
| Institution: | Universidade de São Paulo (USP). Faculdade de Arquitetura e Urbanismo (FAU/SBI) |
| Defense date: | 2018-05-29 |
| Examining board members: |
Sergio Regis Moreira Martins;
Marcos da Costa Braga;
Cristiane Ferreira Mesquita;
Claudia Regina Garcia Vicentini
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| Advisor: | Sergio Regis Moreira Martins |
| Abstract | |
The aim of this study called Fashion project - the material and the immaterial in the academic field is to undertake a debate surrounding fashion design because according to the main hypothesis, due to a number of factors, we understand, there is no consensus with regard to the idea of fashion design within higher education institutions in Brazil, inaugurated in 1988. To stimulate the debate the state of art in fashion design was adopted in the present study as a methodological path, so as to determine the lack of concordance on the theme among the agents within the area. In the course of this investigation had been performed: a bibliographic review with the main books about the theme, interview with the pioneers from the field, a review of the articles published about the issue in the events Colóquio de Moda and Congresso Brasileiro de Pesquisa e Desenvolvimento em Design, known as P&D. Were collected the testimonies from directors of the main Brazilian agencies of promotion, such as FAPESP, CAPES and CNPq trying clarify their visions with regard to the fashion field. The work was extended to Italy, and part of the research was developed at Politecnico di Milano, because this country has influenced the fashion design teaching in Brazil. Finally, were approached symbolic issues that evolve the fashion design in the professional activity translated through concepts like myth, aura, anonymity and industry. This concepts that guide practices, and receive some names, are part of immaterial aspects which permeate the lack of consensus about a fashion design notion in Brazil, in the academic field. If the material aspects correspond to what is physical through design steps which translate themselves into boards, color story, material research, embellishment, drawings, samples and, finally, the final product; the immaterial aspects describe subjective relations, thus implied, that demand a deeper discussion, besides containing concepts and notions that guide immaterial practices, such as the designer inspiration, the choice of a theme for the collection, the boundary between the creator repertoire and your individual interference in the practical-aesthetic configuration of products, the difference between what is academic, atelier and serial production and the possible crosses regarding design steps. These immaterial relations are directly or indirectly linked to the myth notion. This research aimed to point convergent and divergent points of view crossing the obtained data in all steps described before in order to achieve some consensus on the fashion design notions. (AU) | |
| FAPESP's process: | 14/23513-6 - Design inside fashion: material and immaterial in the academic field |
| Grantee: | Leilane Rigatto Martins |
| Support Opportunities: | Scholarships in Brazil - Doctorate |