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Evaluation of oily hair and skin, development and clinical efficacy evaluation of formulations containing guarana extract

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Author(s):
Marcella Gabarra Almeida Leite
Total Authors: 1
Document type: Doctoral Thesis
Press: Ribeirão Preto.
Institution: Universidade de São Paulo (USP). Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas de Ribeirão Preto (PCARP/BC)
Defense date:
Examining board members:
Patricia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos; Ediléia Bagatin; Flavio Bueno de Camargo Junior; Fabiana Testa Moura de Carvalho Vicentini
Advisor: Patricia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos
Abstract

The excess of oil, also called hyper seborrhea can cause skin changes that compromise the skin tissue physiology, affecting not only the skin, but also the hair and scalp. Although there are studies reported in the literature that assess skin oiliness, few assess changes in the scalp, and both at the same time, which can challenge the development of effective products. In addition, the research for more effective innovative products that can act in the oiliness control of skin and hair without compromising the skin eudermia and hair fiber, is a challenge in the Research & Development of cosmetics. In this context, the guarana botanical extract (Paullinia cupana), due to its rich composition in caffeine, catechins and other bioactive compounds, presents potential for application in cosmetic formulations for skin and hair care, for the oiliness control and maintenance of skin eudermia. Thus, the objective of the present study was to evaluate the changes in skin and hair resulting from excessive sebum production, to develop and evaluate the clinical effectiveness of cosmetic formulations with guarana extract in oiliness control through biophysical and image techniques. The results of the skin and hair characterization allowed the correlation among characteristics due to the excessive production of sebum, such as sebum secretion and amount of porphyrins. The results allowed the development of stable formulations, specific and with pleasant sensorial for this type of skin and hair. The results of the clinical efficacy evaluation of the formulations for oily skin and hair showed that the guarana extract was effective in the oiliness control, due to a reduction of the lipid content, activity of the sebaceous glands and amount of porphyrins in the skin and scalp. This reduction occurred without promoting changes in hydration and transepidermal water loss - TEWL, which indicates that the reduction in sebum content did not compromise the skin\'s barrier function. The formulations developed showed a good efficacy perception and acceptability among the participants, which is of fundamental importance for treatment adherence and for obtaining good long term results with the use of the products. Finally, the guarana extract can be suggested as a multifunctional ingredient with application in cosmetic formulations for oil skin and hair. (AU)

FAPESP's process: 17/04149-0 - Evaluation of oily hair and skin, development and clinical efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing guarana extract
Grantee:Marcella Gabarra Almeida Leite
Support Opportunities: Scholarships in Brazil - Doctorate (Direct)