From luxury brands to fast fashion: an analysis of the production strategies of collaborative collections

• Grant number: 16/16686-7
• Support Opportunities: Scholarships in Brazil - Master
• Effective date (Start): January 01, 2017
• Effective date (End): May 31, 2019
• Field of knowledge: Humanities - Sociology
• Acordo de Cooperação: Coordination of Improvement of Higher Education Personnel (CAPES)
• Principal Investigator: Renato José Pinto Ortiz
• Grantee: Bárbara Venturini Abile
• Host Institution: Instituto de Filosofia e Ciências Humanas (IFCH). Universidade Estadual de Campinas (UNICAMP). Campinas , SP, Brazil
• Associated scholarship(s): 17/16732-1 - From luxury brands to fast fashion: An analysis of the production strategies of collaborative collections., BE.EP.MS

Abstract

Since 2004, fast fashion chains and luxury brands have been working together on the development of collaborative clothing collections. Luxury brands create, under a prestigious signature, unique pieces that have quality and perfection as essential elements. Otherwise, fast fashion is a fast and mass-production mode, which reproduces models created by luxury brands in less quality and lower prices, focusing on lower social classes. In collaborative collections the pieces are signed by the designer, but are produced and sold by fast fashion chains. It is assumed that in the fashion field prevails a hierarchy of brands according to their modes of production, distribution and sale, in which luxury brands occupy a higher position while fast fashion chains occupy a lower position. Taking into consideration this assumption and the idea that partnerships enable greater access to luxury brands by popular classes, we aim to investigate how a brand with high symbolic capital in the field, a luxury brand, adapts its concept for selling its signature products in fast fashion chains and what motivates the partnerships. The hypothesis is that collaborations lead to a repositioning of the luxury brand and the fast fashion in the fashion field, giving rise to new discourses, tastes and beliefs. To work with this hypothesis we will study the partnerships made with H&M and Riachuelo, fast fashion chains that has established themselves in luxury retail places and fashion weeks. The methodology will consist of (i) documentary analysis of fast fashion chains, brands and their partners; (i) literature review, specially of Pierre Bourdieu, about the production of taste, the relations of domination and symbolic power; and (iii) interviews with those involved in the production of the collections. (AU)

Scientific publications

(References retrieved automatically from Web of Science and SciELO through information on FAPESP grants and their corresponding numbers as mentioned in the publications by the authors)

MICHEL NICOLAU NETTO; BÁRBARA VENTURINI ÁBILE. Coleções colaborativas. Um espaço de dois universos. Tempo Social, revista de sociologia da USP, v. 34, n. 2, p. 163-187, 2022-09-26. (16/16686-7, 18/20074-2)

Academic Publications

(References retrieved automatically from State of São Paulo Research Institutions)

ABILE, Bárbara Venturini. From griffe to fast fashion: an analysis of the production strategies of collaborative collections. 2019. Master's Dissertation - Universidade Estadual de Campinas (UNICAMP). Instituto de Filosofia e Ciências Humanas Campinas, SP.