The Brazilian silk road: through the warps and wefts of local and transnational fashion industry

• Grant number: 20/13456-6
• Support Opportunities: Scholarships in Brazil - Doctorate (Direct)
• Start date: May 01, 2021
• End date: October 31, 2024
• Field of knowledge: Humanities - History
• Principal Investigator: Vânia Carneiro de Carvalho
• Grantee: Giulia Falcone de Lourenço
• Host Institution: Faculdade de Filosofia, Letras e Ciências Humanas (FFLCH). Universidade de São Paulo (USP). São Paulo , SP, Brazil
• Associated research grant: 17/07366-1 - Collect, identify, describe, exhibit: the curatorial cycle and the production of knowledge, AP.TEM
• Associated scholarship(s): 22/04345-1 - From the cocoon to the carré: production, exhibition, circulation, consumption and disposal of Brazilian silk in the French luxury industry, BE.EP.DD

Abstract

The premise os this research is that contemporary fashion goes through a process of reframing based on the incorporation of political guidelines and the approach to the field of art after the 2008 financial crisis. Although the introduction of a symbolic discourse in fashion, linked to politics and to art, is not an unprecedented or exclusive fact of this period, it is admitted that the spread of fashion as an artistic and political representation is reinforced and expanded as a response to the ruptures caused by the crisis, putting in check the current habits of production and , above all, of fashion consumption. Therefore, this research intends to verify if the conformation of these trends would include a transformation in the practices of production, circulation, consumption and discarding of fashion in contemporary society or if this configuration would correspond only to a form of commoditization of art and politics through the processes of 'aestheticization of politics' and 'artification' of fashion. (AU)