Flavonoid-Enriched Plant-Extract-Loaded Emulsion: A Novel Phytocosmetic Sunscreen Formulation with Antioxidant Properties

Author(s):Show less -

Cefali, Leticia Caramori ^{[1, 2]} ; Ataide, Janaina Artem ^{[1, 3]} ; Fernandes, Ana Rita ^[1] ; de Oliveira Sousa, Ilza Maria ^[4] ; da Silva Goncalves, Fernanda Cristina ^[5] ; Eberlin, Samara ^[5] ; Davila, Jose Luis ^[6] ; Jozala, Angela Faustino ^[7] ; Chaud, Marco Vinicius ^[7] ; Sanchez-Lopez, Elena ^{[1, 8, 9]} ; Marto, Joana ^[10] ; d'Avila, Marcos Akira ^[6] ; Ribeiro, Helena Margarida ^[10] ; Foglio, Mary Ann ^[3] ; Souto, Eliana Barbosa ^{[1, 11]} ; Mazzola, Priscila Gava ^[3]

Affiliation:Show less -

^[1] UC, Fac Pharm, Dept Pharmaceut Technol, P-3000548 Coimbra - Portugal

^[2] Univ Estadual Campinas, Inst Biol, UNICAMP, R Monteiro Lobato 255, BR-13083862 Campinas, SP - Brazil

^[3] Univ Estadual Campinas, Fac Pharmaceut Sci, UNICAMP, Rua Candido Portinari 200, BR-13083871 Campinas, SP - Brazil

^[4] Univ Estadual Campinas, Sch Med Sci, UNICAMP, R Sergio Buarque Holanda 250, BR-13083859 Campinas, SP - Brazil

^[5] Kosmosci Grp, BR-13041315 Campinas, SP - Brazil

^[6] Univ Estadual Campinas, Sch Mech Engn, Dept Mfg & Mat Engn, UNICAMP, Rua Mendeleyev 200, BR-13083860 Campinas, SP - Brazil

^[7] Univ Sorocaba UNISO, Fac Pharmaceut Sci, BR-18023000 Sao Paulo, SP - Brazil

^[8] Univ Barcelona, Fac Pharm, Inst Nanosci & Nanotechnol IN2UB, Dept Pharm Pharmaceut Technol & Phys Chem, E-08028 Barcelona - Spain

^[9] Inst Salud Juan Carlos III, Networking Res Ctr Neurodegenerat Dis CIBERNED, Madrid 28031 - Spain

^[10] Univ Lisbon, Fac Pharm, Res Inst Med iMedULisboa, P-1649003 Lisbon - Portugal

^[11] Univ Minho, Ctr Biol Engn CEB, Campus Gualtar, P-4710057 Braga - Portugal

• Document type: Journal article
• Source: ANTIOXIDANTS; v. 8, n. 10 OCT 2019.
• Web of Science Citations: 1

Abstract

The aim of this study was to develop a phytocosmetic sunscreen emulsion with antioxidant effect, containing a blend of flavonoid-enriched plant extracts. In vitro sun protection factor, antioxidant activity, skin irritation, photostability, cutaneous permeation, and retention of flavonoids were evaluated. Thermodynamically stable emulsions were obtained and tested for sensorial analysis after loading the blend of extracts. The selected emulsion was stable when stored at low temperatures (5 degrees C), for which after 120 days the concentration of quercetin and rutin were above their limit of quantification, i.e., 2.8 +/- 0.39 mu g/mL and 30.39 +/- 0.39 mu g/mL, respectively. Spreadability, low rupture strength and adhesiveness were shown to be similar to a conventional topical product. Higher brittleness, pseudo-plastic, and viscoelastic behaviors were also recorded for the developed phytocosmetic sunscreen. The product presented a critical wavelength of 387.0 nm and ultraviolet rays A and B (UVA/UVB) rate of 0.78, confirming that the developed formulation shows capacity for UVA/UVB protection, protecting skin against damages caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Rutin was shown to permeate the skin barrier and was also quantified in the stratum corneum (3.27 +/- 1.92 mu g/mL) by tape stripping and retention test (114.68 +/- 8.70 mu g/mL). The developed flavonoid-enriched phytocosmetic was shown to be non-irritant to skin by an in vitro assay. Our results confirm the antioxidant activity, sun protection, and physical properties of the developed phytocosmetic for topical application. (AU)

• FAPESP's process: 15/25533-7 - DEVELOPMENT AND EVALUATION OF A FLAVONOID ENRICHED EMULSION WITH SUN PROTECTION FACTOR
• Grantee: Leticia Caramori Cefali
• Support Opportunities: Scholarships in Brazil - Doctorate
• FAPESP's process: 17/14757-7 - Development and evaluation of sun protection factor of emulsion containing extract rich in flavonoids
• Grantee: Leticia Caramori Cefali
• Support Opportunities: Scholarships abroad - Research Internship - Doctorate